Thanks for stopping by. Hope your brother enjoys watching the process.

The kerfed linings just reinforce and add glue surface to the joint between the top/back and sides. The sides will be further reinforced between the kerfed linings with the vertical strips of spruce later after the inside mold is removed from the body. Not sure what you are asking about with respect to squaring up…one edge (top) of the sides is straight and the back edge is radiused along the length of the guitar so, that makes things a bit more challenging.

With respect to the Rough Cut forum project, I am contemplating trying to do the build. I have not done a Federal piece but, I had been contemplating doing one at some point soon – I really like that style. If I can schedule it in, I think it would be interesting to do and to blog about here.

–Mark

What I thought interesting was the kerf linings, for some reason I always envisioned them going full length. Are the Rosewood bends strong enough to take a tossing before assembly???? Did you have to square them up or were they “rough squared” in the kit????

This should be fun to watch. Of course we all expect a short audio for our listening pleasure on completion. Maybe some Hot Tuns’a …Water Song?????

I see you over at Rough Cut, I’d love to see you comment through-out T-Mac’s forum project build, you have very good quality thoughts on all this internet woodworking stuff. I see participation more than those just building.

Neil

Thanks for your comments.

Actually I’ve already built one – should have some info in an upcoming post. You are right, it is a fairly simple process. I’ve tried the wooden go-bar clamps, but I’m thinking that I may look for fiberglass – what diameter fiberglass did you use?

So far, the process of building the guitar has been very interesting and fun. Thanks for stopping by and please continue to visit and comment.

–Mark

Hopefully the memories are good ones

Already ahead of you on the clamping solution. You should see evidence of it in the next post on this project.

Good points on the depth of the lower bout vs. the upper bout and how that helps project the sound from the guitar.

–Mark

For gluing braces to the top/back. consider making a go bar clamp.

http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/th.....bar+Clamps

They are easy to make and can also be used to glue the top/back to the sides.

As for the profile on the sides, the taper is so the sound is moved from the lower part of the instrument towards the sound hole and out to peoples ears.

Thanks for visiting. Yeah, I guess in this case clothespins are your best friend in the woodshop!

The build is going well so far, though I think I will need to build some specialized clamping capability for the next steps of attaching the bracing for the top and back. You’ll have to keep watching for the neck work – that won’t come for a while yet.

The body is actually deeper in the lower bout and also radiused in both directions on the back (all the braced have a curve on them). The top is also radiused to a lesser degree. This is why I will need a creative clamping setup for the braces. All guitars are different, but it all relates to sound in the end.

I contemplated using Hot Hide glue for the things that might reasonably need to be reset on the guitar at some point in its life (i.e. bridge, neck, etc.) But, since this is my first and Titebond I is a reasonable alternative I just went with it. Many people build exclusively with it.

–Mark

This is just like watching Handmade Music, right down to the clothes pins – I love your first installment!

1. I am already anxious to see how well the neck goes on

2. Why is the body deeper at the bottom than at the top? Is it somehow related to sound quality?

3. I bet you are glad that Titebond 1 is a good alternative. I think it would not be fun working with hot hide glue.

A great start, Mark. I look forward to the entire series.